We were so excited to finally be doing the full Old Ghost Road Trail. After a 2 year wait since we road 30 kms at either end of the track, the middle section is finally complete and we can do the whole bang lot  – in one day!

At 8am we are on the track, full of anticipation. This is sacred ground. 85 kms of single track through pristine wilderness – magic!

I found the first 17kms to Lyall hut MUCH harder than I remembered it 2 years ago. My legs were doing it tough, tough and tougher while Paul’s … well, his were just taking it in their stride – those weeks of training on the Kincumber Mountain paying off.

The next 8 kms to Lyall Saddle was even tougher. They had done some work on it since the last time we rode it and, yes, it was less rough and less rocky but me underprepared pegs really suffered.

Views from Heavens door were just perfect, rewarding us for our workout with glorious sunshine as our eyes feasted on marshmallow clouds lining the valleys far below. 

The 800 metres across to Ghost Hut Track where we met track makers with their explosives previously, was now ridable, but we still pointed our front wheels carefully and minded out balance. We didn’t want to tumble hundreds of meters below like the rocks did that they pushed over the edge back then.

We reached the Ghost Hut soon after this. At this point the trail changes dramatically. How would I describe this section of the trail?

Well, at the time, “you call this a mountain bike track?”  was uttered as I wheeled the Ibis. “I call it a goat or walking track!” Being so tired from riding up hill left me with no confidence on the drop offs to impending death! Yes, I was very uncomfortable with the downhill switchbacks and the following several kilometres and rode very little of it. All Mountain lovers, like Paul, on the other hand,  would ride it all and soak up the challenge.

Personally, at the time, I was very surprised and disappointed at how they had prepared this section of the track. In hindsight, however, and with fresh legs, in fairness it was basically technical single track, in contrast to the well manicured technically easy sections of track that the rest of the Old Ghost Road consisted off.

A long staircase linked the trail to the track in the valley floor. Bikes had to be carried here. Then, at the bottom of the stairs, at last less “knarly” track welcomed us. Steep sections were still hard but the downhill and flats were almost becoming fun again and then – who would have thought it – they did  become fun again! I was starting to enjoy The Riding at last.

At the halfway hut there was a bunch of school kids spending the night, with their two teachers supervising them. 5 riders we met at The Ghost Hut were planning to spend the night here. We wondered how pleased they would be to share it with some 30 high spirited teenagers! Thats the way to soak up the NZ Wilderness (not Bro, not)

We crossed a river on a swing bridge that had a gate in it – yes, a gate. It wasn’t there to keep riders out, but to save some special NZ species of snail from the nasty ugly Australian predator, the Ring Tailed Possum. Apparently the snails couldn’t slither under the gate and the possums couldn’t climb over it. Ingenious Kiwi technology!

In one section of forest we are flying along at a good old clip. I have the Go Pro on, shadowing Paul, trying to keep up with his lively pace. I glance down at the Gro Pro to check that the light is flashing at just the wrong time, hit a tree stump and taste the dirt. Lesson learnt!

A helicopter lands in a clearing to the left of us. We pause to watch it and thought this as good a time as any to take time out for lunch. Checking our watches, we realise it’s 330pm already!

After 46 kilometres of riding, we are creeping across a rocky valley floor, aptly named The Bone Yard. My legs are, pure and simple, just, gone, gonsky! Only 2 hours of light remains noq. People we’ve met during the day are amazed and impressed and skeptical at our intentions of riding the entire track in a day. Are they right? Am I gunna make it? Will we get out tonight and, if we do, will it be in time for breakfast?

Now we have to face the countless series of switchbacks designed to get us out of this valley. I honestly don’t think I will be able to ride them. But I plod along in the granniest gear, hoping to at least manage half a dozen of them before I have to jump off and push. Somehow, I manage to ride it out. This, and the downhills to follow, must have increased my confidence for now I have my second wind. The downhills and single track are now a blast. NEVER attempt this ride in reverse, me thinks as the mysterious forest whizzes past.

I believe the liquid protein of the Up and Go Energize and the Energy Gels are kicking in along this section.

My Ibis Ripley OG Black and Green is loving these trails!!!

There is an abundance of Wekas along the trail at this time of the day. At a very special spot where Tarzan once swung on vines we paused to feed one of these lucky native birds. She feasted on all manner of good tucker and even took a souvenir choc coated liquorice home to decorate her nest!

Now it is dark! It is a perfect starry, starry night. Not a breath of wind. It’s warm enough to feel comfortable, cool enough to feel invigorated.

We eat up the Ks on some downhills that seem to go forever.

We are rushing along on the 10-15 k long section of trail that sits above and right on the edge of the gorge below. I recall how gingerly I rode this section last time in the daylight, ever mindful of the rushing river and rocks lining the narrow floor of the gorge far below. It was just inches to the left of my wheels, or so it felt to me. Now, tonight, I cannot see any of that. There is only darkness on either side of the track. I’m focused on the narrow beam of light on the track and riding with gay abandon, with no fear, and loving it, unmindful of the danger below and the many kilometres behind!

We finished our epic ride of the Old Ghost Road at 810pm – 85 kilometres in total. Paul confides he would not hesitate to do it again (and I suspect he is too polite to say he’d rather his riding partner be fitter and more able to keep up next time so that we could complete it in less than 12 hours). Would I do a return visit to the OGR? Certainly, you betcha! That said, I will always treat the technical-on-the-edge section with the respect someone uncomfortable with heights should give it. And will always love every bit of the track from the bottom of the stairs till the finish. Ideally, I would be much more physically prepared so I could enjoy this magical experience all the more next time.

So, my summary of the OGR, arguably one of the best single track wilderness rides in NZ?

I LOVED:

The views, the vast great outdoors wilderness, Paul’s company, the amazing views and atmosphere of Lyall Saddle, outstandingly good single track, idyllic weather, seeing people enjoying the OGR, ringing K from the track, making fun videos, the unspoilt forest, the lakes, the seas of fluffy clouds in the valleys, did I mention the single tracks, not hurting myself when I fell off, seeing possums, Wekas and little blue wrens.  Then there is the satisfaction of completing it in a single day (despite poor preparation) branding us as Heroes and Legends (thanks for waiting Doc!). Oh, and seeing a falling star (no, not me!!).

I DIDN’T LOVE:

Not being fit enough to give the trail the respect it deserves.

Thank you Lord, its a special beautiful part of the world this New Zealand!

Click here for Video of our Old Ghost Ride Adventure